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The charm of Argentine prawns Dec.2013 issue No.120
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Raw autumn salmon skinfiring sashimi (Oct.2013 issue No.118)
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A sashimi of hiratukuri for the Brassy chub Aug.2013 issue No.116
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Welcome to FISH FOOD TIMES


Feb. 2022 issue No.218

Broadbanded thornyhead dishes


Seasonal Broadbanded thorny head with plenty of fat

The fish is in season in winter, and I got a Broadbanded thorny head from Hokkaido that had a brand tag on the fish body.

The official Japanese name Kichiji was originally the name in the Tohoku region, and it seems that it is often called by the name of the local name Kinki in Hokkaido, where the landing height is overwhelmingly high.

Broadbanded thornyhead is a fish that has long been prized as a celebration fish like red seabream in western Japan in the Pacific region of the northeast, and it is a customary "congratulations fish" to offer Broadbanded thornyhead to the Kamidana on New Year's Day.

Broadbanded thornyhead is famous as a high-class white fish, and it is not uncommon to trade at a surprising price of 10,000 yen / kg depending on the time and place. The average wholesale price at the Toyosu market last year is as follows, and the author bought it at a special price of 3,000 yen at a store that is enthusiastic about 450g of the above image.

Why is Broadbanded thornyhead so expensive? It's probably because it's a very fatty fish with more fat than protein, and because it's white, it's a very tasty fish that goes well with any dish. Not only that, but it is also thought to be due to the small supply of fish caught in less than 1,000 tons nationwide.

Broadbanded thornyhead inhabits the slopes of the continental shelf at a depth of 150 to 1200 m, and there are many small fish in shallow places and large fish in deep places, and it seems that seasonal shallow movements are performed without large migration. Broadbanded thornyhead is a deep-sea fish that likes reefs, but because it does not have air bladders, it is valuable because it can be processed with live fish even if it is caught from the deep sea.


Blackthroat seaperch compared to Broadbanded thornyhead

By the way, it is a red-colored fish like Broadbanded thornyhead, and it is not uncommon for the price to exceed 10,000 yen / kg, so the blackthroat seaperch is a very fatty white high-class fish. Regarding the blackthroat seaperch, which is often called nodoguro, it is not uncommon for people in the western Japan region to know about nodoguro, but not the Broadbanded thornyhead fish. Many people say that the blackthroat seaperch is the best.

 

The fat content of blackthroat seaperch is about 18.9% for small size 100g and 26.6% for large 400g, which is almost similar to broadbanded thornyhead fat content 21.7%.

As shown in the graph above, the fishing areas for blackthroat seaperch are mainly Yamaguchi and Shimane prefectures, and the latest data for 2019 shows that 1,613 tons of fish are caught annually nationwide, which is about 1.5 times that of broadbanded thornyhead. There is no big difference in the amount of this catch, and it can be said that the two are similar in this respect as well.

However, very interestingly, the blackthroat seaperch is caught in each prefecture along the Sea of Japan side, starting from Nagasaki prefecture in the west to Akita and Aomori. On the other hand, broadbanded thornyhead is caught only on the Pacific side from the eastern part of Hokkaido to Fukushima and Ibaraki along the Pacific side, and they are in good contrast.

Blackthroat seaperch and broadbanded thornyhead live in the east and west, and the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. With such a clear segregation, the fish with white flesh toro can be simply described as the blackthroat seaperch in the west and the broadbanded thornyhead in the east.


Commercialization of broadbanded thornyhead

Now, let's introduce the commercialization of broadbanded thornyhead. I want to avoid becoming complicated and pick up only the points of the work process.

The broadbanded thornyhead is a member of the scorpion fish of Scorpaenoidea suborder, Scorpaenidae family, and Sebastolobus genus. There is a splendid liver in the belly that has developed like a scorpion fish, so please treat it carefully.

 

The peritoneum has less lump of the blood and can clean the inside of the abdominal cavity.

 

The head is relatively large, and it is too big to accompany the planned figure sashimi, so cut it in half in the middle.

 

After making three pieces disassembling, do not remove fish skin, but make the skin searing and chill it with ice. This is because the skin is soft and has a lot of subcutaneous fat, and while enjoying the flavor of searing, the whole skin is deliciously enjoyed.

 

 

In order to make the kirikado of the skin stand out, I will commercialize it with the skin down using the sogitsukuri technique.

 

Broadbanded thornyhead figure sashimi

 

Next, cut the nigiri sushi sushidane. This also stands up koba with the skin down according to the principle of sushi technique.

 

Broadbanded thornyhead nigirisushi

 

I got 5 kan more for sushi dane, but if I sell these at the fish counter, the cost of figure sashimi is 1,500 yen and the cost of nigiri sushi 5 kan is 750 yen even if I simply calculate the fish ingredients. When it comes to selling these items, the prices are not at a level that ordinary customers can easily purchase. After all, the purchase price of broadbanded thornyhead is very high, so it is unavoidable that only a limited number of stores in Japan can assort broadbanded thornyhead to stores.


Boiled fish in broadbanded thornyhead

On April 21, last year, the market price of high-class fish was sluggish due to the influence of the new coronavirus, and I got a broadbanded thornyhead with the Shiretoko brand tag in the image below at a bargain price. I'm not sure what I remember back then, but I think it was less than half the price of the broadbanded thornyhead I got this time.

At that time, I ate this as "boiled fish with a tcaudal fin and a head". April is the time when the broadbanded thornyhead loses weight and loses fat after spawning, and the broadbanded thornyhead market is the lowest in the year. Moreover, at that time, the epidemic of the new coronavirus was widespread, which made it possible because there were no buyers from business sources.

The first thing to say is that the boiled broadbanded thornyhead was "very tasty" and I definitely felt that the broadbanded thornyhead was a good fish all year round. After all, since the fish has a fat content of over 20%, even if it is halved in this season, it is 10%, so it is delicious because it still has a sufficient level of fat. broadbanded thornyhead, a high-class fish that you can't usually buy, should be purchased and sold at this timing.

It is a normal broadbanded thornyhead that the purchase price of one fish is several thousand yen. I don't think I often see a boiled fish with a caudal fin and a head that uses all of this. Let's introduce the point with an image below.

Working process of broadbanded thornyhead boiled fish with a caudal fin and a head

1,After removing the scales of the broadbanded thornyhead, turn the belly up and cut the gills film with a deba knife.

5,Wipe off the water from the fish and cut the body of the broadbanded thornyhead diagonally.

2,Hold the gills behind the deba knife and raise the body of the broadbanded thornyhead with your left hand.

6.Remove lye the burdock sliced diagonally and let it boil.

3,Move the broadbanded thornyhead to the left while holding the gills with a deba knife, and pull out the internal organs as it is.

7.Add broadbanded thornyhead to the boiled broth for a while.

4,Wash away the rest of internal organs and blood.

8.Boil over low heat for about 8 minutes, occasionally sprinkling the broth from above.
Broadbanded thornyhead boiled fish with a caudal fin and a head

Now is the time to buy high quality fish

By the way, this month's issue picks up the broadbanded thornyhead, a high-class fish that I don't think I have a chance to deal with. This high price is exactly the relationship between supply and demand, because demand is higher than supply, and if demand is low, the price should settle down to some extent.

For example, during the last two years in the midst of the corona wreck, the price of the blackthroat seaperch, a toro of fish with white flesh in the west, has also been sluggish. However, the blackthroat seaperch fisherman I know was absent from work when the blackthroat seaperch market was sluggish, saying that if the blackthroat seaperch was at such a low price, he would not go fishing.

In other words, fishermen and fishermen's cooperatives in production areas and fish markets in consumption areas, which are trying to maintain high prices as before, have narrowed down the supply of the relationship between supply and demand and manipulated prices. Not only blackthroat seaperch, but also broadbanded thornyhead, which is called high-class fish, has been doing so all over the country for about two years. However, when the fifth corona disaster was coming to an end after the fall of last year, the demand for high-end fish increased, and at the same time, the trading prices of high-end fish such as broadbanded thornyhead followed an upward trend.

However, as you know, the 6th new coronavirus has been rampant, the price momentum that has continued since last fall has been eroded, and high-end fish are losing their destination. If you find a broadbanded thornyhead or blackthroat that is having trouble finding a buyer, this is a great opportunity. I would like you to purchase high-quality fish that you cannot easily handle and study to enhance your experience.

The author believes that the readers of FISH FOOD TIMES must be aspiring study lovers. The author has continued FISH FOOD TIMES for 18 years for such aspiring fishery people, and has entered the 19th year. However, there is a limit to knowledge alone, and by having the actual experience of "handling a fish with a kitchen knife, knowing the characteristics of the fish, eating and knowing the taste", the real thing with experience value. It is stored as an ability.

Investment is also required to increase experience points. It's possible to expect some kind of return from investing for yourself in the future, but if you expect only the return, you may be disappointed by the expectation.

The author thinks that the real ability backed by experience points is something that accumulates and grows unknowingly by continuing various experiences over time. The chance to increase that experience lies in the background of the new coronavirus disease.

Now is the time to purchase high-quality fish that you do not have the opportunity to handle on a daily basis, increase your experience points, and improve your ability.


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An opinion and the communication are to iinfo@fish food times

Date of updating 1 Feb. 2022